Haunted Chillingham Castle in Northumberland offers a unique getaway with ghost tours, quirky accommodation and rare wild livestock in a historically rich setting, says GAYLE FIDLER
The county of Northumberland is filled with mystery, myths and legends. The countries have been victims of raids, bloodshed and massacres for centuries. Yet this historic province remains wild, rugged and beautiful.
Golden sandy beaches stretch along the northeast coast, once the landing site for Viking invaders. To the west, moors, hills and forests still echo with the footsteps of Roman soldiers, who had built their homes in one of the many settlements and garrisons that can be visited to this day.
In the north we cross the border of Scotland, a scene of battle and hostility for centuries. However, this is an ancient landscape, not just pockmarked by the ravages of war. If you look closely you can find evidence of prehistoric daily life, agriculture and rituals: stone circles, cairns and rock art.
Northumberland is dotted with castles, more than seventy of which dominate the landscape. Some have fallen into disrepair over the centuries, with skeletal remains of towers looming over the land, ominous and dominant, but not yet completely destroyed. However, many still stand in all their enormous grandeur. They may look imposing, but they welcome hundreds of visitors every day who contribute to the enormous costs of keeping these beautiful buildings alive.
Ghosts of Chillingham Castle
An example of such a castle is Chillingham, near Wooler. I have been a regular visitor for years and fell in love with its quirkiness and charming eccentricity from my first visit.
Chillingham is owned by the equally charming, quintessentially British eccentric Sir Humphry Wakefield Bt. Sir Humphry was a baronet, army captain, explorer and antiquarian, among other things, and took over ownership of Chillingham in the early 1980s after it had fallen into a state of disrepair. The castle is the family seat of the Gray and Bennett family (later Earls of Tankerville). Sir Humphry’s wife, the Hon. Lady Katherine Wakefield is of gray descent.
According to the castle website, Chillingham is “Britain’s most haunted castle”. Visitors come from far and wide to soak up the atmosphere and walk with echoes of ghosts. The castle is not only accessible to day trippers. It has eight apartments that are rented on a self-catering basis for those of us for whom a day out is not long enough. Furthermore, the East Lodge, once home to generations of castle gardeners, has been lovingly restored by Sir Humphry’s eldest son and is also available to rent.
As we are a family who likes a quirky holiday, we have used Chillingham Castle as a base when exploring Northumberland for many years, and have stayed in a selection of the rooms available. Each room is unique and decorated with antiques, photos and portraits from the past. In your apartment you will find guest books describing the experiences of previous guests. Make of it what you will: some stories are funny, others are horrifying. Think of those stories as you lie in bed at night and listen to sounds echoing around the castle walls.
Some rooms even have their own Ouija board (or perhaps a leftover from guests who would rather not risk taking it home!). However, if there isn’t one in your room, don’t worry: you can purchase one from the castle’s gift shop. But beware, guest who decides to take something without paying. Sir Humphry has a new form of security. According to legend, the castle and grounds are protected by a witch, whose portrait, “The Chillingham Witch”, hangs in the castle. It is said that the witch curses those who steal or damage the property.
The origin of the witch is unknown. Her oil painting was one of the few artefacts left in the castle when Sir Humphry took over. If you’re curious about the nature of the curse, visitors can find a series of apologetic letters and returned property from those who dared to test the witch’s wrath. However, it’s not just stolen property that can be cursed in Chillingham. In 1976, Sir Humphry received a grim warning from the then Dowager Countess of Tankerville, Violet, who was concerned that a terrible curse was upon the family.
The family has certainly had its fair share of unusual encounters over the years. In 1925, Leonora, Countess of Tankerville, described her own ghostly experiences in Chillingham on a radio talk show. A transcription of this can be purchased in the castle shop. These included a ghost known as ‘The Radiant Boy’, a small child who appeared in the form of a blue light, accompanied by screams and moans. The skeleton of a child was later discovered near where the apparition would appear. It was given a Christian burial in the castle cemetery. There is also the tragic story of Lady Mary Berkeley, who is said to wander the castle in search of her unfaithful husband.
Sir Humphry heeded Violet’s sharp warning and had the castle driven out. However, the exorcist failed in his attempts, claiming that the spirits were “far too strong for him to handle” and that Sir Humphry would have to live with them. Which he has duly done since. He even claims that the spirits have helped him rebuild the dilapidated building over the years and ensure its success for future generations.
The ghosts were put to work in 1986, when finances looked bleak and the castle’s renovation project was in jeopardy. A Japanese television company contacted Sir Humphry and asked if they could film a program about the castle ghosts. This was later followed by Channel 4’s Big Breakfast, which made an episode in the castle with presenters Lily Savage and Mark Little. Sir Humphry got the idea to start ghost tours. Since then, the spooky animations have proven to be an essential source of income for the castle’s continuation. Visitors can book ghost tours, which take place all year round.
We took a tour that lasted about two hours, and the guide was informative, funny, and while we didn’t encounter a castle ghost, it was an interesting insider’s look at the castle. It was a great opportunity to soak up the atmosphere in some of the castle rooms after the chatter of the day visitors had gone home and the sun was setting.
As dusk falls over the castle grounds, this is one of the best times to soak up the atmosphere. The castle is home to many bats and you can watch them at night as they fly. Sir Humphry’s coat of arms features a bat, which can be seen on gates, doors and even on the weather vane that stands high on the roof of the castle.
Perhaps more famous than the ghosts, however, are the Chillingham wild cattle. According to the Chillingham Wild Cattle Association, these are one of the rarest animals on earth. The beautiful white beasts remain untouched by human hands. The cattle have been roaming the estate for centuries. Once hunted for sport and food, they are now protected by the association. Little is known about their origin, but they probably descend from medieval herds. Guided tours can be booked, but be careful: these are wild animals and can be potentially dangerous. Also known as Fairy Cows for their rare white coats and pink ears, the herd makes for a unique visitor destination.
After a busy day and night of ghost, bat and cow watching, nothing is better than a relaxing trip to the castle’s tea room. You can enjoy an impressive selection of home-made cakes and scones by the roaring fire, which crackles and burns even in the height of summer. But perhaps even the fire can’t completely keep the cold out of the air in this castle, where the ghosts are still put to work.
Have you seen a ghost in Chillingham Castle? Tell us about it in the comments below!
